Pattern Testing: KBSD On Point Penley

You guys would never believe that I got to test another henley pattern for women! But this one is very different from the Winter Wear Designs (WWD) Hepburn Henley… Meet the On Point Penley from Koerbs Brothers Stitch Designs (KBSD)!

KBSD Women's On Point Penley

No, you are not seeing things and yes, both these designs came from the same pattern. And guess what? The pattern also come in dress length. Seriously. You can check out the designer’s henley dress here.

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Pattern Testing: WWD Women’s Hepburn Henley

Pattern testing is soooooooooo much fun!!! Straight from testing for Kennis at Itch to Stitch, I got selected to test the new women’s pattern by Suzanne Winter at Winter Wear Designs.

Abbey Dabbles: Testing WWD Women's Henley in final Size 12

The Women’s Hepburn Henley is available in sizes 00-22, which is a bust range of 28-48 inches and hips of 31.5-52 inches. It is semi-fitted at bust, flowing out gently to the hips, and comes with the following options:

  • Length – Shirt and Tunic in both Regular and Petite
  • Neckline – Crew Neck and V-neck
  • Sleeves – Short, 3/4 and Long (with optional sleeve tabs)

You can use most knits for this pattern – Jersey, Interlock, Ponte de Roma, slub knits – and can then use cotton woven for the henley placket, sleeve tabs and collar (obviously cut on the bias for this part). Of course you can make the whole shirt in knit and Suzanne recommends cotton lycra for the collar or any knit with at least 50-60% stretch and good recovery is key.

The instructions were clear and easy to follow. Never sewn a placket before and now I want to put them on every shirt I make!

Abbey Dabbles: Testing WWD Women's Henley in original Size 14/16

Based on the draft size chart, my first test version was cut at size 14/16, which was subsequently split up as two separate sizes for the final pattern. I used this amazing black and white chevron ITY knit from Fabric Mart for the main and purple cotton jersey for the henley collar and placket from local store, Abed’s.

Maybe it was just the size, but this was definitely too wide all around for the semi-fitted look that we were supposed to have. the neckline was too low and too wide set for me. The only thing that wasn’t too wide were the sleeves. At 3/4 length, I found they were too close coming down to my elbow and at the hem. The armscye also needed to be raised some as I was getting a dolman style that obviously wasn’t intended by the design. However, the tunic length at 14/16 was perfect for my 5’3″, so I knew I’d be keeping that for #2.

Abbey Dabbles: Testing WWD Women's Henley in original Size 14/16

One of my besties, Toni, fit this test version perfectly, but was also getting the same too wide neck, sleeve tightness and armscye issues. Obviously, she has now put in an order for one of these in a dress length. Notice she also has the same weirdness in the neckline, but I’m sure that is my user error and I somehow managed to overstretch the shirt neckline. You know who made sure to staystitch for the collar of the next version…

Abbey Dabbles: Testing WWD Women's Henley in final Size 12

My second and final test was made in size 12 and graded out to 14 hips with 14 tunic hem. I chose this amazing orchid colour interlock knit (have no clue what type it is as I bought it locally and we call fabrics by completely different names than they are known universally it seems) and some scraps from the ITY chevron knit for the collar, placket and some shoulder accents for an amazing combination.

Abbey Dabbles: Testing WWD Women's Henley in final Size 12

The neckline was raised and also narrowed some in this version of the pattern and I loved these changes. Look how much nicer the collar is laying! And I so didn’t make the placket functioning, can you tell? Lazy sewing at its finest! The only real issue with #2 for me was that I had to grade out to 18 for the sleeves to fit comfortably. Since most of the testers were noticing the same tightness in the sleeves, regardless of size and even fabric, Suzanne did widen the sleeves for the official pattern.

Abbey Dabbles: Testing WWD Women's Henley in final Size 12

The best part about this pattern for me is the collar options. Just like her Everything But the Kitchen Sink Henley for Kids, Suzanne wanted us ladies to also have a true go to pattern with the Hepburn Henley. You can make this tee with the Henley collar, a Faux Henley placket or No Henley at all to create a regular crew neck or v-neck tee. That’s 4 basic shirts styles from one pattern, and when you add in the two neckline styles, the three different sleeve lengths and the two hem lengths, you can get a completely different shirt every time! Pure awesomeness as far as I’m concerned.

WWD Women's Hepburn Henley Final Version

Can the choir say, #sewallthehenleys! I’m loving this new wardrobe staple and can easily see at least four more of these in my wardrobe. And until the end of today, Sunday, October 11, you can purchase the Hepburn Henley at a special price of US$7.00.

Tibeca, another tester, also did a review of this pattern on her blog; you can check her version here.

DISCLAIMER: As a tester of the pattern, I was given a free copy in exchange for my review and commentary. All opinions remain my own.

Me Made: The Teresa Maxi Dress

In my mind, I had planned to do some fun and creative things this Christmas. Unfortunately, those dreams had to be shelved as the reality of the stress of teaching made it impossible for me to do anything else other than grade assignments and sleep and maybe eat some days. I don’t know if Mr. AD realized that I was completely strand out and so decided to surprise me with Christmas lunch at Hilton this year. In any event, whatever his reason, I am so grateful that I didn’t have to cook this Christmas. Thanks, hun!

The only Christmas idea to come to fruition was my dress, and even that end result hadn’t even been my original idea. I had envisioned some kind of fitted bodice with a circle skirt. But when the grading for my event planning class was strangely taking up more time than normal to complete, I needed a quick and easy project. That’s when I dug out my beloved Pixel Ink One Piece Kimono Tee Pattern.

When I first joined Burda last year, this was one of the first free patterns that I added to my library and I’m so glad I did. I first made something from this pattern this April for Mr. AD’s birthday – a burnt orange tunic that I love! I’ve already worn it as a dress, a tunic, and a top.

Pixel Ink Burnt Orange Tunic

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So I’m missing my graduation tho…

Yeah, so after that not-so-productive birthday sewing challenge, it may not be the best time to talk about my formal sewing training right? Oh well, I needed the reminder that I can actually sew…

Today is graduation day for the Samuel Jackman Prescod Polytechnic (SJPP) here in Barbados, and I had no idea that Evening Programmes were included in these activities until I received my graduation notice about 3 weeks ago. Not only did I complete my Basic Ladies’ Tailoring Class successfully, it seems my tutor awarded me the honour of “Most Outstanding Student”. *insert Grammy/ Oscar shocked winner face here*

Since I’m here struggling with acute sinusitis and can’t attend, in honour of my little achievement, I decided to let you guys see the work I did for the class, which started in August 2011 and ended in May 2012. For the basic class, the tutor focuses on sewing basics, with a focus on skirts in the first semester and on shirts and dresses in the second.  And please forgive the quality of the photos as I had just gotten my new camera and had no idea about its fancy settings.

Abbey Dabbles: Three Skirts: Tailored, Panel, and Gore

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Abbey 3.0 Sewing Challenge Wrap Up!

Thank you for waiting. Abbey version 3.0 is installed.

It’s the last day of October… and my sewing challenge is… unfinished… 😦

Abbey 3.0 Wishlist Items Final Status

I’m going to hazard a guess that 8 items were probably a bit much for me to try to complete this month, what with starting to teach a new class at the BVTB and then feeling positively crappy for about 2 weeks.

I did have some fun though and especially love how my both my Wrap Dress and Ruffle Skirt came out. I like the Maxi Dress and the Leggings too, but there are some adjustments and improvements to incorporate when I make more of each.

The Peplum Top and the Colourblock Top were my biggest disappointments. EPIC FAILS! I am so doing those over until I get the look I was going for.

And time just ran away and left me so I couldn’t get to the Lace Top or the Cardigan. Of course, I still want these items so they will definitely make a future appearance on this blog.

Thanks everyone for your kind words of encouragement throughout the month!